The sight of Jed, in the Indians' eyes, helping out by fashioning a tow line, and wading on ahead through the deepest part of the white water, was "mucho mocho." The idea of a woman, lending a helping hand and taking a risk of being swept away by the current, was almost incomprehensible.

As an anthropologist, Jed knew they had been extremely lucky. Jenny shattered a traditional custom in a way that was evidently acceptable. The "outsiders" now were in a position to ask a favor they wanted from the "people," with an assurance it would be taken seriously. Without Choco´ help, he realized, the consequences of stumbling through the jungle, alone, could have been disastrous.

Instead, they were being taken on a romantic adventure. The skill of the boatman was impressive. He seemed to have a knack avoiding obstacles, and using back eddy currents to fight the ever increasing turbulence as the stream narrowed. The drive and ingenuity of his crew was equally amazing. At one point, seemingly blocked by a huge tree that had fallen from one bank to another, Artillio engineered a way through. Their packs were passed hand to hand over the obstruction; the boat was capsized to fill with water so that it floated just under the surface, which made it possible to pass underneath the log.

Hiking on ahead while the canoe was being uprighted, Jed realized that they had missed out on their picnic lunch, and he, and probably everyone else, was hungry. A rocky beach with a bit of shade seemed a good spot to take a break, so he fired up his portable stove.

The only thing on the gringo menu that was a success was instant coffee made with half the recommended water, twice the coffee, and four times the sugar. Jenny opened two cans of mandarin oranges to pass around. One taste sent the Indians off into the jungle to forage. They returned with wild oranges, sugarcane, and plantain, a banana that Artillio deep fried in palm oil. The taste was similar to a potato. They were to learn that the "platano" was the Choco´ diet staple.

During the meal, everyone in a circle, hunkering down with bent legs balanced on the balls of their feet, Jenny, once again, talking through Artillio, tried to explain what they were looking for. "No, not gold. We are searching for any sign of a gringo who disappeared on Castle de Oro many years ago."

None of their crew was from the village of Narangitti. As travelers, the Choco´ explained, they all would be welcome to stay in the visitor's "bohio," or hut. They personally would see to it nothing bad happened to Jed and Jenny. But that it was very important for them to understand that the people of Narangitti considered the mountain sacred. No outsiders were ever allowed upon the slopes.

With this prophecy in mind, the reception they received rounding a bend in the river, arriving at the village was tempered with apprehension.